Whips and Whipmaking by David Morgan, Cornell Maritime Press
Not really a how to book but lots of valuable info, history and techniques esp. on Australian whip
Whipmaking :A Beginners Guide by Dennis Rush, Meta Publishers
I found this at Tandy Leather. As the title says, good diagrams and info, not offputting.
Leather Braiding and The Encyclopedia of Leather and Rawhide Braiding by Bruce Grant Cornell Maritime Press
Braiding and more braiding, knotwork and some diagrammed instruction on how to build quirts, crops and bullwhips American and Argentine tradition
How To Make Whips: "All you need for a start is a piece of leather, a sharp knife, a steady hand, and some patience." By Ron Edwards 1998 Cornell Maritime Press. An updated compilation of Edwards' first three booklets on traditional Australian whipmaking Excellent!
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Hanging Strap Cage (see Page for pictures)
http://www.saroftreve.com/wwl/strapcge.shtml
Hanging Strap Cage
I used one of these a looong time ago, and it was cool! The Hanging Strap Cage works like a Chinese finger trap: a tube shape that closes tight on what's inside. Entirely stress-free suspension. Please note that you need about 10 feet of vertical beneath the attachment point, 'cause it gets really long and stretches a bit. Also, this project involves a LOT of work. It seems like you bevel and EdgeCoat miles of leather. You'll also need rudimentary woodworking skills, or want to know someone with those skills. (There's a wooden base.) And find a metalworking shop that will do a little custom work.
This project is not for the faint-of-heart. I'm a little anal about using leather efficiently, and the lengths reflected here were selected based on a specific side of leather. You may need to change them significantly. The project consumes a little over half of a large side of latigo, and it's the best half.. the top (back) portion. Try to get a long side for this project because it makes a real difference. I've had great service from Siegel on special requests like this. Finally, it would be insane to try this project without a strap-cutter.
This design is derived from a similar item sold by Mr. S in San Francisco. They'll sell you one for $600. This project will cost a little over $100 (if you get leather cheap), but does take 15-20 hours of planning and work. It should be strong enough to hold any TWO people, since the effective weight-bearing components are equivalent to a full foot of heavy latigo. Not that I'm advocating anything funky (although I've tested mine with three people ;)
Difficulty: Difficult
Tools
Mallet, Utility Knife, Rivet Setter, Punch, Edge Beveler #2, Strap-Cutter
Parts Checklist
1" Welded D-rings (6)
Medium Rivets and ¼" Key Posts (24/36)
3/8" Key Posts (78)
Durable Dots (Snaps) (6)
Leather Checklist
Round Base: 8" x 8"
Straps (6): 212" (218" with overlaps) x 1" (note: each strap is really three pieces, unless you find a REALLY long cow)
Ring Retainers (6): 4" x .75"
Steps
1 - Understand Diagram 1
Take a really good look at Diagram 1. You'll probably need to complete something similar. Each individual (of 6) strap is in red going up and purple going back down. The numbers at the bottom tie the two together: 1(red) is the same strap as 1(purple).
Each blue box indicates a joint between two pieces of the same strap. Leave 1.5" extra on each piece at these points. The black boxes at the top represent to D-ring locations.
Leave 6" of excess at both ends, at the BOTTOM of each strap, extending beyond the location marked 'Base'.
There are eleven distinct layers, indicated by the spaces between the horizontal black lines. Each layer (except the top one) is 8" high, and represents 9" of strap, resulting in a diamond pattern. This design is quite tall. You could probably eliminate one layer if you play only with the vertically challenged ;) The top layer is 10" high.
Numbers running up the right side, associated with thin green lines. The green ones represent the length of leather required to get to the indicated point from the bottom, including 6" at the bottom and 1.5" for overlap. The blue numbers are the distance down from the D-ring. Note that you'll always add two of these numbers to get the length of a piece, since we don't want a joint at the D-ring.
'Base' is the location for the wooden base. 'Ring' is the top-most possible location of the metal hoop.
Got it?
2 - Plan Your Straps
Using some planning mechanism similar to that described above, plan your straps. This shouldn't be too hard if you understand Diagram 1. Here's what I ended up using.. see it you can map these measurements back to the Diagram: (hint: they read from red to purple)
Strap 1: 93" - 86" - 39"
Strap 2: 93" - 41" - 84"
Strap 3: 39" - 86" - 93"
Strap 4: 75" - 86" - 57"
Strap 5: 57" - 86" - 75"
Strap 6: 84" - 41" - 93"
Obviously, you need to plan this in light of what you can get out of your side of leather. Check this step three or four times before proceeding!
3 - Cut Leather
Start cutting straps! Cut lots of 1" straps, then cut them to the lengths you identified in the previous step. The ends at joints can be finished as desired.. I use a 1" end-rounder ($20 at Tandy) for a nice clean finish. The bottom ends should be shaped like the 'Strap Outline' in Diagram 2.
Next, cut the round base as shown in Diagram 2. Find a plate about 8" around and trace it.
Finally, cut the little ring retainers. These are just 4" x .75" strips that will snap on to hold the metal ring at one level or another.
4 - Punch Holes
Punch all required holes. The round base should be self-explanatory. The straps are a bit trickier.
The bottom ends should be punched as shown in Diagram 2. The joint ends require two holes, .5" and 2.5" from the end. Note that 3" will overlap.
There should be a hole every place two straps cross, which should be every nine inches. The 20" surrounding each D-ring get divided 7" - 6" - 7". This too takes a little calculation. Let's look at an example using Strap 1 from mine. Remember, this strap has three pieces, 93" - 86" - 39".
Piece 1 (93"): (bottom) - .5" - 1.5" - 2.5" - 15" - 24" - 33" - 42" - 51" - 60" - 69" - 78" - 86" - 90.5" - 92.5" - (joint)
Piece 2 (86"): (joint) - .5" - 2.5" - 6" - 13" - (D-ring) 19" - 26" - 35" - 44" - 53" - 62" - 71" - 80" - 83.5" - 85.5" - (joint)
Piece 3 (39"): (joint) - 5." - 2.5" - 6" - 15" - 24" - 36.5" - 37.5" - 38.5" - (bottom)
Finally, holes at both ends of each ring retainer. .5" back from the ends will do.
5 - Finish Edges
Get comfortable. Bevel all of the edges, and finish with Tandy EdgeCoat.
6 - Assemble Cage
Start from the bottom, and work you way up. First, number the positions on the round base, 1 to 12. Mark or scratch numbers right on the round base somewhere you'll be able to see them with the straps in place.
Attach the bottom straps to the round base using 1 medium key post and two rivets each. Follow the pattern of numbers at the bottom of Diagram 1 (or your equivalent).. it's vital that the pieces are attached in the right order! Picture Diagram 1 wrapped around your round base.
Start working upwards, attaching each joint with a 3/8" key post. This longer post will leave the joint loose, allowing the cage to constrict. Always go 'over' in the same direction: the strap going from left to right should always be on the outside (or the other way around). Complete one level all the way around before moving on to the next.
Eventually, you'll get to a joint. The first six joints you hit, attach the next appropriate piece. You'll need to track back to the base and look at the number scribed there to do so. However, once you reach the seventh place for a joint, guess what? No more pieces! All of the six remaining long ends go up and through a D-ring, then back down to meet a partner end. It's impossible to describe this process, so use trial-and-error! Just don't super-glue any key posts until you know everything is right (i.e. in place). It's a little more work, since you have to screw-unscrew-screw all 100+ key posts, but have you ever tried to remove a glued post?!?
Don't forget to put the D-rings on the straps. Secure them as shown in the Finished Product pictures below. This should be a 3/8" key post as well.
7 - Attach Snaps
Secure the Durable Dots to the ring retainers, half of a snap set on each end.
8 - Wooden Base
Grab your favorite power tool (put down that vibrator!) and cut a 12" circle of your choice of wood. .75" or 1" thick, plywood or particle board. I favor particle board, but either works. Smooth the edges of this circle with a file, and paint it black.
9 - Metal Ring
Run down to your local metalworker (unless of course you can do it yourself), and have them fabricate a 12" hoop out of 3/8" rolled steel stock (round). For safety, please get this hoop welded closed. Note that you can forego the ring (and ring retainers) if the target person wears a sturdy helmet. The strap cage can put significant pressure on the head, and one or the other should be used.
10 - Final Notes
You're actually done! Congratulations! Some parting thoughts on use:
As described earlier, you need a really high ceiling (or tree) to use this baby. A winch, block-and-tackle, or come-along is also handy.
There are six rings at the top. What's up with that?!? Well, that's part simplicity and part requirement. You certainly COULD attach all the straps to one big ring at the top, but then you couldn't get IN. The cage will stretch out to go around something 8 feet in circumference, but only if the top is open. Use three heavy quick links. The first through three adjacent D-rings, the second through the other three, the third through the first two. Got that? Don't feel bad.. I had to read it twice, too.
This is an extremely safe way to do suspension. The only possible danger is circulation, since the occupant can't move around and the straps can press in rather firmly. Don't leave someone unattended in here for too long.. there ain't no way out! I hear folks get bored, too ;)
Diagram 1
Diagram 2
The Finished Product
Hanging Strap Cage
I used one of these a looong time ago, and it was cool! The Hanging Strap Cage works like a Chinese finger trap: a tube shape that closes tight on what's inside. Entirely stress-free suspension. Please note that you need about 10 feet of vertical beneath the attachment point, 'cause it gets really long and stretches a bit. Also, this project involves a LOT of work. It seems like you bevel and EdgeCoat miles of leather. You'll also need rudimentary woodworking skills, or want to know someone with those skills. (There's a wooden base.) And find a metalworking shop that will do a little custom work.
This project is not for the faint-of-heart. I'm a little anal about using leather efficiently, and the lengths reflected here were selected based on a specific side of leather. You may need to change them significantly. The project consumes a little over half of a large side of latigo, and it's the best half.. the top (back) portion. Try to get a long side for this project because it makes a real difference. I've had great service from Siegel on special requests like this. Finally, it would be insane to try this project without a strap-cutter.
This design is derived from a similar item sold by Mr. S in San Francisco. They'll sell you one for $600. This project will cost a little over $100 (if you get leather cheap), but does take 15-20 hours of planning and work. It should be strong enough to hold any TWO people, since the effective weight-bearing components are equivalent to a full foot of heavy latigo. Not that I'm advocating anything funky (although I've tested mine with three people ;)
Difficulty: Difficult
Tools
Mallet, Utility Knife, Rivet Setter, Punch, Edge Beveler #2, Strap-Cutter
Parts Checklist
1" Welded D-rings (6)
Medium Rivets and ¼" Key Posts (24/36)
3/8" Key Posts (78)
Durable Dots (Snaps) (6)
Leather Checklist
Round Base: 8" x 8"
Straps (6): 212" (218" with overlaps) x 1" (note: each strap is really three pieces, unless you find a REALLY long cow)
Ring Retainers (6): 4" x .75"
Steps
1 - Understand Diagram 1
Take a really good look at Diagram 1. You'll probably need to complete something similar. Each individual (of 6) strap is in red going up and purple going back down. The numbers at the bottom tie the two together: 1(red) is the same strap as 1(purple).
Each blue box indicates a joint between two pieces of the same strap. Leave 1.5" extra on each piece at these points. The black boxes at the top represent to D-ring locations.
Leave 6" of excess at both ends, at the BOTTOM of each strap, extending beyond the location marked 'Base'.
There are eleven distinct layers, indicated by the spaces between the horizontal black lines. Each layer (except the top one) is 8" high, and represents 9" of strap, resulting in a diamond pattern. This design is quite tall. You could probably eliminate one layer if you play only with the vertically challenged ;) The top layer is 10" high.
Numbers running up the right side, associated with thin green lines. The green ones represent the length of leather required to get to the indicated point from the bottom, including 6" at the bottom and 1.5" for overlap. The blue numbers are the distance down from the D-ring. Note that you'll always add two of these numbers to get the length of a piece, since we don't want a joint at the D-ring.
'Base' is the location for the wooden base. 'Ring' is the top-most possible location of the metal hoop.
Got it?
2 - Plan Your Straps
Using some planning mechanism similar to that described above, plan your straps. This shouldn't be too hard if you understand Diagram 1. Here's what I ended up using.. see it you can map these measurements back to the Diagram: (hint: they read from red to purple)
Strap 1: 93" - 86" - 39"
Strap 2: 93" - 41" - 84"
Strap 3: 39" - 86" - 93"
Strap 4: 75" - 86" - 57"
Strap 5: 57" - 86" - 75"
Strap 6: 84" - 41" - 93"
Obviously, you need to plan this in light of what you can get out of your side of leather. Check this step three or four times before proceeding!
3 - Cut Leather
Start cutting straps! Cut lots of 1" straps, then cut them to the lengths you identified in the previous step. The ends at joints can be finished as desired.. I use a 1" end-rounder ($20 at Tandy) for a nice clean finish. The bottom ends should be shaped like the 'Strap Outline' in Diagram 2.
Next, cut the round base as shown in Diagram 2. Find a plate about 8" around and trace it.
Finally, cut the little ring retainers. These are just 4" x .75" strips that will snap on to hold the metal ring at one level or another.
4 - Punch Holes
Punch all required holes. The round base should be self-explanatory. The straps are a bit trickier.
The bottom ends should be punched as shown in Diagram 2. The joint ends require two holes, .5" and 2.5" from the end. Note that 3" will overlap.
There should be a hole every place two straps cross, which should be every nine inches. The 20" surrounding each D-ring get divided 7" - 6" - 7". This too takes a little calculation. Let's look at an example using Strap 1 from mine. Remember, this strap has three pieces, 93" - 86" - 39".
Piece 1 (93"): (bottom) - .5" - 1.5" - 2.5" - 15" - 24" - 33" - 42" - 51" - 60" - 69" - 78" - 86" - 90.5" - 92.5" - (joint)
Piece 2 (86"): (joint) - .5" - 2.5" - 6" - 13" - (D-ring) 19" - 26" - 35" - 44" - 53" - 62" - 71" - 80" - 83.5" - 85.5" - (joint)
Piece 3 (39"): (joint) - 5." - 2.5" - 6" - 15" - 24" - 36.5" - 37.5" - 38.5" - (bottom)
Finally, holes at both ends of each ring retainer. .5" back from the ends will do.
5 - Finish Edges
Get comfortable. Bevel all of the edges, and finish with Tandy EdgeCoat.
6 - Assemble Cage
Start from the bottom, and work you way up. First, number the positions on the round base, 1 to 12. Mark or scratch numbers right on the round base somewhere you'll be able to see them with the straps in place.
Attach the bottom straps to the round base using 1 medium key post and two rivets each. Follow the pattern of numbers at the bottom of Diagram 1 (or your equivalent).. it's vital that the pieces are attached in the right order! Picture Diagram 1 wrapped around your round base.
Start working upwards, attaching each joint with a 3/8" key post. This longer post will leave the joint loose, allowing the cage to constrict. Always go 'over' in the same direction: the strap going from left to right should always be on the outside (or the other way around). Complete one level all the way around before moving on to the next.
Eventually, you'll get to a joint. The first six joints you hit, attach the next appropriate piece. You'll need to track back to the base and look at the number scribed there to do so. However, once you reach the seventh place for a joint, guess what? No more pieces! All of the six remaining long ends go up and through a D-ring, then back down to meet a partner end. It's impossible to describe this process, so use trial-and-error! Just don't super-glue any key posts until you know everything is right (i.e. in place). It's a little more work, since you have to screw-unscrew-screw all 100+ key posts, but have you ever tried to remove a glued post?!?
Don't forget to put the D-rings on the straps. Secure them as shown in the Finished Product pictures below. This should be a 3/8" key post as well.
7 - Attach Snaps
Secure the Durable Dots to the ring retainers, half of a snap set on each end.
8 - Wooden Base
Grab your favorite power tool (put down that vibrator!) and cut a 12" circle of your choice of wood. .75" or 1" thick, plywood or particle board. I favor particle board, but either works. Smooth the edges of this circle with a file, and paint it black.
9 - Metal Ring
Run down to your local metalworker (unless of course you can do it yourself), and have them fabricate a 12" hoop out of 3/8" rolled steel stock (round). For safety, please get this hoop welded closed. Note that you can forego the ring (and ring retainers) if the target person wears a sturdy helmet. The strap cage can put significant pressure on the head, and one or the other should be used.
10 - Final Notes
You're actually done! Congratulations! Some parting thoughts on use:
As described earlier, you need a really high ceiling (or tree) to use this baby. A winch, block-and-tackle, or come-along is also handy.
There are six rings at the top. What's up with that?!? Well, that's part simplicity and part requirement. You certainly COULD attach all the straps to one big ring at the top, but then you couldn't get IN. The cage will stretch out to go around something 8 feet in circumference, but only if the top is open. Use three heavy quick links. The first through three adjacent D-rings, the second through the other three, the third through the first two. Got that? Don't feel bad.. I had to read it twice, too.
This is an extremely safe way to do suspension. The only possible danger is circulation, since the occupant can't move around and the straps can press in rather firmly. Don't leave someone unattended in here for too long.. there ain't no way out! I hear folks get bored, too ;)
Diagram 1
Diagram 2
The Finished Product
Locking Wrist Cuffs
http://www.frugaldomme.com/manufact/manufa5.htm#cuffs
Locking Wrist Cuffs
You can make cuffs out of leather you buy in Tandy. A set of wrist cuffs doesn't take a huge amount of leather and just requires a leather punch a razor knife, and a hammer and hard surface as tools.
You will need about 9-10" of leather for each cuff, about 2" wide. If you are making them for a female sub, you can make them shorter. What you actually need, is the wrist measurement, plus about 3" If you are going to line them, you might want to add another inch.
You will also need the two part rivets, the hasp (?) part of a lock set (what I mean is the part with the ring sticking up that you pull the other piece over then padlock.)
Use rather heavy leather for this, otherwise, the hasp is going to unbalance them and they will be uncomfortable. All you have to do, is set the padlock down on one end, measure where the holes are, punch the holes, and fasten the padlock down with rivets.
Do this on each cuff. Then, measure them on your sub, and cut a slit for the hasp to come through, and fasten them with padlocks.
Voila! Locking cuffs, custom sized.
You can also add a D ring, anywhere you like by simply using a small piece of leather as a strap to hold it on......and riveting it down on either side of the d ring. These rivets are pretty secure.
I usually use rabbit fur scraps to line mine with, and I use leather that is a bit heavier than your usual belt leather. So far, I haven't seen it stretch much.
I don't recommend these cuffs for suspended bondage They don't offer enough padding for that, even lined.
Locking Wrist Cuffs
You can make cuffs out of leather you buy in Tandy. A set of wrist cuffs doesn't take a huge amount of leather and just requires a leather punch a razor knife, and a hammer and hard surface as tools.
You will need about 9-10" of leather for each cuff, about 2" wide. If you are making them for a female sub, you can make them shorter. What you actually need, is the wrist measurement, plus about 3" If you are going to line them, you might want to add another inch.
You will also need the two part rivets, the hasp (?) part of a lock set (what I mean is the part with the ring sticking up that you pull the other piece over then padlock.)
Use rather heavy leather for this, otherwise, the hasp is going to unbalance them and they will be uncomfortable. All you have to do, is set the padlock down on one end, measure where the holes are, punch the holes, and fasten the padlock down with rivets.
Do this on each cuff. Then, measure them on your sub, and cut a slit for the hasp to come through, and fasten them with padlocks.
Voila! Locking cuffs, custom sized.
You can also add a D ring, anywhere you like by simply using a small piece of leather as a strap to hold it on......and riveting it down on either side of the d ring. These rivets are pretty secure.
I usually use rabbit fur scraps to line mine with, and I use leather that is a bit heavier than your usual belt leather. So far, I haven't seen it stretch much.
I don't recommend these cuffs for suspended bondage They don't offer enough padding for that, even lined.
Homemade Whips and Snakes from Rope
Domina's Shopping and Home Manufacturing Tips
DISCLAIMER:
Using whips and snakes is potentially hazardous and should be approached with caution. The end of a whip is moving faster than sound and can raise huge welts, tear flesh and cause injury if used carelessly. I have no control over how you make a whip or snake and use it, and therefore I claim no responsibility for the use of this information. If you make a whip or snake, you do so at your own risk.
Introduction:
The main benefit of making a whip or snake from rope or clothesline is cost. For a tiny fraction of the price of a professionally-made whip, it's possible to make a whip that's adequate for practicing and learning basic skills. For those who've watched all the Indiana Jones movies and always wanted to try it, a low-priced, homemade whip is ideal. It also gives a person a chance to try a new length or style of whip with little investment of time or cash and should last at least long enough to let you know if you like this hobby and want to pay the higher cost of a professional leather whip.
The materials:
You need some form of sturdy rope or clothesline. My whip is nine feet long and was made with plastic-core, cotton-covered clothesline. You also need some strong thread (carpet thread is ideal), possibly some tape, and some leather thongs for the poppers. Boot laces work fine.
Techniques:
Two techniques are used in construction: a four-strand "macrame" and a three strand braid. Both are simple. The macrame is similar to closing the flaps of a cardboard box. Three strands overlap, either clockwise or counterclockwise, with the fourth strand tucking under the first. With both the macrame and the braid, you may want to experiment a bit with string or light rope before buying or cutting something more expensive.
Starting the macrame's a little tricky. Cut however much rope you're going to use in half and cross the two parts at the midpoint. It should look like a big "plus" sign. For the sake of description, imagine the four parts pointing North, South, East and West. Arrange the ropes so that the North-South rope is the one on top. Let's start by taking the East rope and folding it back towards the West end. What you should have is a "U" shape with the N-S rope running through it. What *was* the East rope should be "above" or "North" of the West rope. Now take the North rope and fold it in half towards the South rope. It should end up lying next to the South rope, just to its "left" or "West" side. Now take the original West rope and fold it back toward the East side, so that the East-West rope looks like a big backwards "S." Finally, take the South rope and fold it toward the North. It will pass ON TOP of the West rope you just folded over toward the East, and THROUGH the loop formed by the first fold you made (folding the East rope toward the West). What you now have is two backward "S" shapes (one rotated 90 degrees) that interlock.
Looking at it another way, we just folded all four ends over, working in a counterclockwise direction, much as we fold over the flaps of a box, as I mentioned earlier. Pull all the ends tight, and you have the basis for the macrame pattern. Repeat the steps above, but in reverse this time. That is, you started going counterclockwise, so this time go clockwise, folding over an end, then folding over the next one, then the next one, and tucking the last one in and pulling all the ends tight. The next layer is counterclock- wise, then another clockwise one, etc. Congratulations! You've learned the four-strand macrame, the only difficult part in making a whip!
The three-strand braid is even easier. Lay the three strands out in front of you. One end of the three strands should be secured. When experimenting with string, just tie the three ends together or wrap a piece of tape around them. Now, take the right strand in put it between the other two. Then take the left strand and put it between the others. Then take the right strand and put it between the others, then take the left strand and place it between the other two. Continue alternating between the right and left strands. Simple, isn't it?
The construction process:
Whip construction using this method consists of four steps:
-the handle
-the macrame part
-the braided part
-the poppers
The handle is simply a piece of wood, such as a 3/4" dowel, in the center of the first part of the macrame. Start the whip by crossing the two pieces of rope and placing the butt of the handle down onto the intersection. Do the macrame, but with the wood in the center of it. The handle of my whip is about 18" long. I used some electrical tape at the very end of the handle to stabilize the macrame and to form a grip. You could conceivably wrap the entire handle with tape. If it works for you, do it.
When you reach the end of the handle, continue the macrame as you originally learned it. On my whip, this part is about 3.5 feet long.
The next stage is the braid. To make the transition from macrame to braid a little less abrupt, I cut off one rope, leaving an end a few inches long. Placing it alongside another one of the three remaining ropes, I began a three-strand braid, with one strand being thicker than the other two. I didn't bother to finish the raw end of the fourth strand in any way, so it has frayed a bit over the years, but it's never come loose from the braid. To be neat, I could have tied the end to one of the other strands with carpet thread before braiding. The braided portion of my whip, by the way, is approximately 3.5 feet long, just about the same length as the macrame part.
I finished off the braid by attaching one popper to each of the three strands in the braid. I then wrapped the last few inches of the braid with tape. It's not exactly elegant, but it allows me to replace the poppers when one breaks. I've done this once that I can remember. The poppers are 12" long, plus a few inches of overlap with the braided part. The poppers were originally leather boot laces, and they've become very soft and supple over the years from use.
Dimensions of my whip:
Handle: 15"
Macrame: 3.5'
Braid: 3.5'
Poppers: 12" Total length: 9 feet, 3 inches
That's it! I hope these instructions were clear enough to follow easily.
Variations:
To make a snake instead of a whip, simply omit the wooden handle. The whip which I examined before making mine was about 12-14 feet long. It used a double macrame to start off, then went to a single macrame (the four-strand type describe above), then to a braid, and finally to the poppers. The double macrame is nothing but a four-strand macrame, but each "rope" is now two pieces of rope treated as one strand. In other words, you would cut *FOUR* pieces of rope. Lay down two alongside one another, then lay down the other two perpendicular to the first two. Pretend you're doing a four-strand macrame, but with thicker ropes. I don't think the double macrame will be useful unless you want to make a *REALLY* long whip. As shorter whips and snakes are safer and easier to control, I don't recommend the long ones.
Good luck, and be safe!
DISCLAIMER:
Using whips and snakes is potentially hazardous and should be approached with caution. The end of a whip is moving faster than sound and can raise huge welts, tear flesh and cause injury if used carelessly. I have no control over how you make a whip or snake and use it, and therefore I claim no responsibility for the use of this information. If you make a whip or snake, you do so at your own risk.
Introduction:
The main benefit of making a whip or snake from rope or clothesline is cost. For a tiny fraction of the price of a professionally-made whip, it's possible to make a whip that's adequate for practicing and learning basic skills. For those who've watched all the Indiana Jones movies and always wanted to try it, a low-priced, homemade whip is ideal. It also gives a person a chance to try a new length or style of whip with little investment of time or cash and should last at least long enough to let you know if you like this hobby and want to pay the higher cost of a professional leather whip.
The materials:
You need some form of sturdy rope or clothesline. My whip is nine feet long and was made with plastic-core, cotton-covered clothesline. You also need some strong thread (carpet thread is ideal), possibly some tape, and some leather thongs for the poppers. Boot laces work fine.
Techniques:
Two techniques are used in construction: a four-strand "macrame" and a three strand braid. Both are simple. The macrame is similar to closing the flaps of a cardboard box. Three strands overlap, either clockwise or counterclockwise, with the fourth strand tucking under the first. With both the macrame and the braid, you may want to experiment a bit with string or light rope before buying or cutting something more expensive.
Starting the macrame's a little tricky. Cut however much rope you're going to use in half and cross the two parts at the midpoint. It should look like a big "plus" sign. For the sake of description, imagine the four parts pointing North, South, East and West. Arrange the ropes so that the North-South rope is the one on top. Let's start by taking the East rope and folding it back towards the West end. What you should have is a "U" shape with the N-S rope running through it. What *was* the East rope should be "above" or "North" of the West rope. Now take the North rope and fold it in half towards the South rope. It should end up lying next to the South rope, just to its "left" or "West" side. Now take the original West rope and fold it back toward the East side, so that the East-West rope looks like a big backwards "S." Finally, take the South rope and fold it toward the North. It will pass ON TOP of the West rope you just folded over toward the East, and THROUGH the loop formed by the first fold you made (folding the East rope toward the West). What you now have is two backward "S" shapes (one rotated 90 degrees) that interlock.
Looking at it another way, we just folded all four ends over, working in a counterclockwise direction, much as we fold over the flaps of a box, as I mentioned earlier. Pull all the ends tight, and you have the basis for the macrame pattern. Repeat the steps above, but in reverse this time. That is, you started going counterclockwise, so this time go clockwise, folding over an end, then folding over the next one, then the next one, and tucking the last one in and pulling all the ends tight. The next layer is counterclock- wise, then another clockwise one, etc. Congratulations! You've learned the four-strand macrame, the only difficult part in making a whip!
The three-strand braid is even easier. Lay the three strands out in front of you. One end of the three strands should be secured. When experimenting with string, just tie the three ends together or wrap a piece of tape around them. Now, take the right strand in put it between the other two. Then take the left strand and put it between the others. Then take the right strand and put it between the others, then take the left strand and place it between the other two. Continue alternating between the right and left strands. Simple, isn't it?
The construction process:
Whip construction using this method consists of four steps:
-the handle
-the macrame part
-the braided part
-the poppers
The handle is simply a piece of wood, such as a 3/4" dowel, in the center of the first part of the macrame. Start the whip by crossing the two pieces of rope and placing the butt of the handle down onto the intersection. Do the macrame, but with the wood in the center of it. The handle of my whip is about 18" long. I used some electrical tape at the very end of the handle to stabilize the macrame and to form a grip. You could conceivably wrap the entire handle with tape. If it works for you, do it.
When you reach the end of the handle, continue the macrame as you originally learned it. On my whip, this part is about 3.5 feet long.
The next stage is the braid. To make the transition from macrame to braid a little less abrupt, I cut off one rope, leaving an end a few inches long. Placing it alongside another one of the three remaining ropes, I began a three-strand braid, with one strand being thicker than the other two. I didn't bother to finish the raw end of the fourth strand in any way, so it has frayed a bit over the years, but it's never come loose from the braid. To be neat, I could have tied the end to one of the other strands with carpet thread before braiding. The braided portion of my whip, by the way, is approximately 3.5 feet long, just about the same length as the macrame part.
I finished off the braid by attaching one popper to each of the three strands in the braid. I then wrapped the last few inches of the braid with tape. It's not exactly elegant, but it allows me to replace the poppers when one breaks. I've done this once that I can remember. The poppers are 12" long, plus a few inches of overlap with the braided part. The poppers were originally leather boot laces, and they've become very soft and supple over the years from use.
Dimensions of my whip:
Handle: 15"
Macrame: 3.5'
Braid: 3.5'
Poppers: 12" Total length: 9 feet, 3 inches
That's it! I hope these instructions were clear enough to follow easily.
Variations:
To make a snake instead of a whip, simply omit the wooden handle. The whip which I examined before making mine was about 12-14 feet long. It used a double macrame to start off, then went to a single macrame (the four-strand type describe above), then to a braid, and finally to the poppers. The double macrame is nothing but a four-strand macrame, but each "rope" is now two pieces of rope treated as one strand. In other words, you would cut *FOUR* pieces of rope. Lay down two alongside one another, then lay down the other two perpendicular to the first two. Pretend you're doing a four-strand macrame, but with thicker ropes. I don't think the double macrame will be useful unless you want to make a *REALLY* long whip. As shorter whips and snakes are safer and easier to control, I don't recommend the long ones.
Good luck, and be safe!
Quickie Strap On Harness
From Gadgette as posted on DOMestic.
Used by permission
May I offer a "quickie" suggestion in the meantime?
I really didn't want to go for a nice leather jobbie, what with all the bodily fluids, lubes, etc... so I used a different approach. This is custom fitted in minutes, cheap , and REAL easy to surprise a nervous novice with.
Start with a length of cording about 3 times your waist measurement. Fold it in half. Then, starting at the folded end, tie a simple overhand knot about every three to six inches down the entire length of the rope. What you should have at this point is intended to be fastened around your waist like a belt. The purpose of the knots is to give you slide-proof attachment points for the next step. Sort of like: ====X====X====X====X====X====X====X====X====
I really wish I could draw this freehand instead of describe it... it's so much easier to explain that way... sigh...
Anyway, the next step is to take three lengths of SOFT cording. I start with a yard or so each, and cut the excess off once I "size up" my prey. Take an ordinary cockring, I prefer rubber, but metal will work. Fold the three soft cords in half... and attach each to the cockring with a lark's head knot. Now, take two of the three doubled cords, and bring them up across your tummy to meet the "belt" you fashioned around your waist. Tie them lightly an equal distance from your belly button,placing the ring by approximating the "height" from which you wish your "cock" to "hang". The third pair will be split to go between your thighs, on around the backs of your thighs, and outward and back up along the sides of your hips... quite similar to the way a "jock-strap" is positioned. Now, slip an appropriately sized latex dong or vibe through the cockring. Voila! Instant personalized pecker! Then, once your sub is arranged in a position comfortable for you, you can "fine tune" the lengths of cord to an exact positioning for comfortable penetration. Practice is the only way to figure this out for your specific case. Make sure you go back and retighten the cords before you start playing. One more thing! Depending on how rambunctious you get, or the duration of the play, if your skin is naked under this arrangement chafing may become an issue. As I take the position that being clothed is a privilege, I use this arrangement over a garment... but if you prefer the au natural state, perhaps a handtowel nearby to slip underneath just in case would suffice?
Used by permission
May I offer a "quickie" suggestion in the meantime?
I really didn't want to go for a nice leather jobbie, what with all the bodily fluids, lubes, etc... so I used a different approach. This is custom fitted in minutes, cheap , and REAL easy to surprise a nervous novice with.
Start with a length of cording about 3 times your waist measurement. Fold it in half. Then, starting at the folded end, tie a simple overhand knot about every three to six inches down the entire length of the rope. What you should have at this point is intended to be fastened around your waist like a belt. The purpose of the knots is to give you slide-proof attachment points for the next step. Sort of like: ====X====X====X====X====X====X====X====X====
I really wish I could draw this freehand instead of describe it... it's so much easier to explain that way... sigh...
Anyway, the next step is to take three lengths of SOFT cording. I start with a yard or so each, and cut the excess off once I "size up" my prey. Take an ordinary cockring, I prefer rubber, but metal will work. Fold the three soft cords in half... and attach each to the cockring with a lark's head knot. Now, take two of the three doubled cords, and bring them up across your tummy to meet the "belt" you fashioned around your waist. Tie them lightly an equal distance from your belly button,placing the ring by approximating the "height" from which you wish your "cock" to "hang". The third pair will be split to go between your thighs, on around the backs of your thighs, and outward and back up along the sides of your hips... quite similar to the way a "jock-strap" is positioned. Now, slip an appropriately sized latex dong or vibe through the cockring. Voila! Instant personalized pecker! Then, once your sub is arranged in a position comfortable for you, you can "fine tune" the lengths of cord to an exact positioning for comfortable penetration. Practice is the only way to figure this out for your specific case. Make sure you go back and retighten the cords before you start playing. One more thing! Depending on how rambunctious you get, or the duration of the play, if your skin is naked under this arrangement chafing may become an issue. As I take the position that being clothed is a privilege, I use this arrangement over a garment... but if you prefer the au natural state, perhaps a handtowel nearby to slip underneath just in case would suffice?
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